Kilts can be pleated to either the sett or the stripe.
- Pleating to sett is the pattern running across the pleats to give it the same appearance as the front of the kilt.
- Pleated to the stripe is the stripe running down each pleat normally this is the most prominent stripe in the pattern.
Generally, the public would have their kilts pleated to sett and the military (pipe bands, etc) would have their kilts pleated to stripe.
However this does come down to personal preference as both are equally acceptable.